This afternoon a chance came to go to the range. Despite twenty degree temperatures and stiff breezes, I jumped on it.
Today the AR180b came along, with several types of ammunition to try out. In this case, Privy Partisan 55 grain FMJ, and Silver Bear 55 grain FMJ. I have been meaning to try both, and today was the lucky day!
That is... till the cold really bit home, and the shivering started in. Can I get a BRRRRrrrrrr?
But... forge on we must, and I tried to be fair to both. The rifle sports an Eotech 512 holographic sight on a StormWerkz base, and while it has no magnification the 1-moa dot allows fairly precise shooting at reasonable ranges. This afternoon, I stretched that out to 200 yards... a little far for a 'dot' sight and my old eyes.
I have to say, the silver bear functioned fine, but other than that did not impress me. It gave mediocre accuracy, which seemed to fade with range. At one hundred yards it held four inch groups... not terrible for $5 a box ammo, but at two hundred yards that got worse. A lot worse... like maybe hit the paper. In addition, I am unsettled about the way the case obdurates to seal the chamber, as I saw plenty of powder marks down the side of the case.
The case on the Silver bear is zinc plated steel, and also seems to have some form of poly coating as well. They certainly feel sticky to the touch when hot, after firing. That troubled me a little.
The Privy Partisan has traditional brass cases and traditional bullets as well. It's performance is on par with most any generic American made .223 FMJ ammunition, which is to say pretty darn good. On a day when I could shoot without shivering like a chihuahua in heavy traffic, it gave MOA tight groups with this rifle at one hundred yards.
Function is 100% perfect and accuracy is good too. At $7 a box locally, and cheaper on line, it seems a pretty good deal.
As for accuracy... here's an indicator... The target following was fired from the bench at 200 yards. The sight is unmagnified, with a 1-moa red dot surrounded by a 65-moa ring. The wind cost me two inches of left drift, but I was still able to keep most rounds in a group about the size of a twenty round magazine.
Given the shooting condition today, and weapon used, I am not unhappy.
Today I got a chance at some range time, and thought I might discuss working on basic shooting schools. In this case, flinching and failure drills.
Dr Helen posted about a gun-bloggers get together. (It sounded like a great time had by all!) In her posting she mentioned an issue with flinching, and that started me thinking.
Flinch, or what might also be called 'anticipating the shot' is a problem where accuracy is concerned. In bad cases, it can can throw shots right off the target. With long arm or pistol, it can happen to anyone. It occurs when the shooter becomes conscious of the recoil, and reacts to it before it even happens. Rather than letting the weapon recoil naturally, the shooter pushes into it, throwing off the round before it ever leaves the barrel.
In it's very worst incarnation, a shooter can actually be scared of the recoil, and 'flinch' can be massive. While most every shooter can physically handle most any small arm within reason, a horrendous flinch, once learned, can be seriously difficult to get rid of. It may be one of the most common reasons new shooters, who started out with too large a weapon and poor training, give up the sport.
New shooters should usually start with small caliber weapons, so skills can be worked on without having to deal with recoil. The classic for this role is the trusty old .22. Cheap, quiet, accurate, and with almost no recoil at all, it's the traditional way for new shooters to learn.
Highly experienced shooters often return to the .22 for target, plinking, and solid skills practice. Some shooters never leave it behind in the first place!
Here is a short video demonstrating the offending act. The pistol is a large, heavy, magnum, often found at the source of flinching. Notice the muzzle drop as the hammer falls on an empty chamber.... that is flinch.
I'm happy to say... I did that on purpose. I worked through most of my 'flinch' issues long ago. That said, even the slightest bit is harmful to precise shooting.
The video itself shows a useful way of working on shooting skills. Just the same as all major athletes review video of themselves, there is something very helpful in seeing ourselves in action. A watchful coach on hand can point out problems and solutions, but actually seeing yourself is priceless.
There are a number of ways to train away a flinch. Classic among them is simple dry firing. With an unloaded weapon, and no ammunition in the room, preferably by yourself, and with a safe bullet absorbent wall... (get the idea that safety is important?), now choose a small point on the wall at comfortable height. Aim at that point, practicing squeezing the trigger. Ideally, the sights should not waver as the striker/hammer impacts. Pictures are good, but just a tiny piece of tape will suit fine.
This is particularly dramatic over a distance of twenty feet or so, with a laser on the weapon. Watching that red dot dance can be very instructive! Do this kind of dry fire practice daily if possible. Even ten minutes a day of trigger and sight practice can prove very effective.
Now, some methods of flinch training on the range are the subject here. So... lets see a couple that work.
First, and a classic, is to load a revolver with the occasional empty chamber. Either have a partner do so, where you can't see, or do so yourself and spin the cylinder. Coming up on an empty chamber unexpectedly can reveal a flinch dramatically to the shooter.
In this video, played at slow motion, watching carefully at the muzzle will show some flinch as the empty chambers come under the hammer....
Again, instructive by itself, doubly educational with a video of yourself to watch. Honesty insists.... I was not trying to show a flinch that time... what you see is real.
Now, naturally this won't work with an autoloader. Not really. Sure, for maybe one at a time, with someone else loading for you and handing you the weapon. It can help, but it's certainly slow and not much fun
More preferential, and more effective, is to purchase some action testing plastic dummy rounds for the weapon. These are inexpensive, and quite safe. They can also be known as 'snap caps', but those are more likely to be mechanical in nature with a spring loaded mechanism to reduce firing pin impact. Action proving dummy rounds are solid plastic, cheap, and will function through a magazine just like a loaded factory round. They can be ordered for most all common pistol, and most rifle, calibers.
Placing these intermittently in a loaded magazine will serve the same function as empty chambers in a revolver. At certain times the pistol will go 'click' instead of bang. If flinch is an issue, it will become apparent at that time. Again, video helps tremendously.
Using these dummy rounds in a magazine also allows another skill to be practiced at the same time.... the 'failure drill'.
What happens when your autoloader fails to fire as expected? All click, no bang... and that can be a sinking feeling. It need not be that big an issue if the failure drill is practiced. Also called a 'Tap and Rack', the magazine is given a smack to make sure it's seated and the offending round is racked out of the chamber, a new one being stripped in when the slid is released.
Here it is in action.... and no laughing please.... I'm trying to be helpful here...
Whatever method is chosen, flinch is certainly possible to overcome. If these methods don't help, a good shooting coach will know many more. No matter what... never give up!
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