Some days, 'Ol Carteach understands he exists solely as an example to others. On occasion, a good example, but more likely a bad one. This weekend was one of those times....
We were at the range shooting some old military boomers (7.62x54mm Mosins, if you must know), and on coming home they needed to be cleaned. Surplus military ammunition is typically quite corrosive, and a thorough cleaning is always in order.
This means pulling the bolt, naturally, and numerous trips through the bore with patch and brush. Windex to cut the corrosive salts, Hoppes to break loose the powder fouling, and Sweet's 7.62 to melt away the copper fouling. In between, a bronze brush to stir things up an
As the pile of used and filthy patches grew, and grew, and grew..... there was plenty of time to consider other options. This thought went through the mind: "Hey, ammonia melts away copper fouling... and is also a good cleaning agent... and only costs like eight cents a gallon.... why don't I just fill the bore and let it soak a few minutes?".
Friends.... that became one of those times that Carteach takes the hit, and tries something for the team. My advice is simple.... don't do what I did. It took longer, made more of a mess, did a lousy job cleaning, and yes.... ammonia will strip stock finish very nicely, thank you.
I plugged the muzzle by simply tapping in a lead slug that was a few thousandths oversize to the bore. Sadly, I forgot that it was only the driving bands that were oversize, so it did leak a bit.
To pour the ammonia cleaner into the bore, I used a small powder funnel at the breech. This itself presented a problem, as the funnel blocked the view of the chamber, and whether or not it was full. Yes... I overfilled the bore, and yes... ammonia will soften and attack shellac, much like the hand rubbed shellac finish
(Not to worry, as a little alcohol and a brisk rub repaired the finish later....... Shellac can be wonderful stuff to work with.)
So.... with the bore full, and a very slow leak at the muzzle, the rifle was stood aside for a timed ten minutes. Then... more hilarity ensued. The lead slug refused to be pulled from the muzzle, and instead snapped off with the effort. That left only one choice, pushing it from the bore with a cleaning rod. Now... Archimedes was not a fool, and perhaps 'Ol Carteach should have paid closer attention to his teachings.
Dropping the cleaning rod down the barrel from the chamber end, physics took over as it always does. Dirty ammonia solution fountained from the rifle's barrel, and once again proceeded to rearrange the stock finish into new and interesting patterns. Knocking out the plug, the bore full drained, leaving behind...... a still dirty bore.
Okay, the fouling was softer and did clean out with fewer passes of the rod and brush, but all of Carteach's grand thoughts of "I'll just push all the nasty out in one swipe!" were a sham, and the whole operation ended up taking twice as long as a standard cleaning process.
There's are times when a full bore of cleaning solution may be the answer to a tough situation, or an application of electrolysis cleaning may be the way to go. That said... neither is worth doing for everyday cleaning.
Take it from 'Ol Carteach.... king of the bad examples.

7 comments:
Been there, my brother...been there.
I had that same idea a couple of years ago...experienced the same results. Only when I did it, I messed up the finish on a pristine Enfield #4 Mk1.
Why not take a transmission funnel (so that you can pour from the breech end) and just run a few quarts of near-boiling hot water down the bore to remove the corrosive salts?
Follow up with some bore cleaner and oil it an you're done.
Carteach,
I promise, I really tried not to laugh. It's not funny. But I failed. I'm sorry. I do appreciate your learning for me. This hard-earned wisdom is why I keep coming back.
Oddly enough one of the simplest mean's of cleaning fouled bores from corresive ammunition is boiling hot, soapy water. It softens the crud, cleans up the bore nicly with a bore brush and dries quickly. Follow up with your solvent soaked patches and brush then patch dry. No carbon, crud or filth left behind.
Joe
Wipeout....spray, wait, patch out. It's the only way to clean a gun. If you're not using Wipeout then you're working too hard and your gun isn't getting clean :D.
I just tried something I'd heard about and it worked. 1000 plus rounds through my AR without cleaning. Sabre upper w/ss barrel. carb cleaner to remove carbon (didn't do that great a job), wet patch of Sweets 7.62, let sit 5 minutes, wet a patch with hydrogen peroxide and run it though the bore. Foams up. follow with clean patches. Pretty good, did second pass with a good brushing, third time and patches were coming out white! never had the patience to get a bore to clean patch state.
For corrosive-primed stuff, easiest thing I've found is Ballistol. I've got a Russian two-chamber oiler, one side filled with Ballistol & water(diluted as on the label) and the other with Break Free. When I'm done shooting I run a couple of damp patches down the bore, then a couple of dry. Use a damp to wipe the bolt face, then a dry, then run an oily patch through the bore and wipe the bolt face. Then, when I get home I can do a standard cleaning.
Been doing it this way for a few years, never a problem with rust.
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