Monday, March 10, 2014

Calling the Mosin experts in the family..... Bit a help?



So.... I bought this yesterday.  I won't tell you how much I paid, because you'll just get mad at me.

So far, I know this is a 1943 Izhevsk made ex-sniper, and has been refurbished.  Am I missing anything else?

This will join my Tula ex-sniper in the collection.  Honestly.... I can't but look at those ground off and welded screws and wonder just how hard they would be to get out....





9 comments:

Comrade Misfit said...

Not easy at all. Those screws are difficult to get out. If you surf around, you'll find lots of comments about broken drill bits, etc.

Not uncommon to see that the old filling screws are left in and treated like part of the receiver for installing a new mount.

jon spencer said...

Have you looked into ultrasonic and or ultrasonic with alum?
Unless you have one of those machines at your new job, that can run into a few hours of labor for a machinist.

jon spencer said...

One of the reasons that I mentioned ultrasonic was that I broke a hardened steel pin off in the head of a TI 6v53 and once we brought the head to the machine shop it only took a hour or two to have the pin eaten away ultrasonically with no damage to the head.

Haven't broken one of those pins of since.

Grog said...

Can you post a picture of what the screws look like on the outside of the bolt rail, or can you describe it?

For removal, one of these might work;

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc-drill-out-screw-out-power-extractors/p-00952157000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-11119-Extractors/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=sr_1_1/180-7286943-1839419?ie=UTF8&qid=1394498027&sr=8-1&keywords=reverse+drill+bits

For the sears set, you'll need to drill the offending metal, the sears set doesn't include drill bits.

As a last resort, try to chisel a straight slot into the screw, if that works you could use a flat tip screwdriver to get it out.

drjim said...

The only way I've seen screws like that removed without damage has been with an EDM machine.

B.S. philosopher said...

I would say, Don't. The screws themselves are proof of what the rifle was in a former life. You would be taking away part of that rifle's story. If you remove them, then what you have no longer has any provenance and is really worth no more than one of the "pseudo-snipers" with repro mounts and scope that are being turned out today.

Comrade Misfit said...

Also, there is no guarantee that the holes on a new mount will precisely line up with the old holes. The arsenals cranked out many, many thousands of Mosin PU snipers. From one base mount to another, there could be variation in the hole's spacing. But since the base mounts were to be affixed permanently, it didn't matter much.

snekrz said...

Wow ok. Well the only thing that sticks out as something to watch for is that yes the distance between the screws and pins can be off a bit. Mounts can be had in several different distances. I have re-snipered 2 Ex PUs and have a yugo m91/30 as my current gun that just needed a mount and scope. Center punch the screws and drill them using a press. Taking care to center them as well as possible. Keep increasing the drill size until your left with a sliver on the threads. I countersunk the outside of the screw holes and was left with a curly que of the original screw I just twisted out. Pins are easier but you could skip them alltogether.

Wally said...

Screw removal isn't difficult for someone with the right machinery. Shouldn't be much work on a decent bridgeport with a skilled operator. Dremel and EZ-out will only leave you disapointed !